February 4th, 2010
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January 17th, 2010
I am working on correcting/improving the Monster Miata manual into a Wiki that allows people to view the manual electronically off my site.
I am also including my experiences appropriately with certain areas and such. The reason why I’m doing this is not to make money (donations are appreciated), but to provide the most accurate information about dropping a V8 in a Miata the right way to keep yourself safe and to protect your investment.
The manual has some problem areas and many confusing areas that I intend to clear up in my wiki version of the manual.
The benefits of a wiki allows me to correct parts quickly with minimal hassle and the like. The truth be told, I’m developing this manual because I thought that the Monster Miata manual was hard to follow and a jumble of instructions that could have caused the experience to go south fast.
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November 29th, 2009
If you guys have V8 miatas and wonder why the engine occasionally tries to stall while coasting or at clutch disengage (especially when engine braking is done), the likelihood that your ECU is not receiving speed data from the speed sensor that the speedometer cable is connected to. The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) has two connections: mechanical and electrical. The mechanical goes to the speedometer on your dash. The electrical goes to the pin 3 (+) and 6 (-) of your ECU. The lacking of the VSS contributes to the ECU depending on other sensors to compensate for return-to-idle RPM/load tables and when to re-open injectors. The complications is a result of emission directives set forth by the U.S. Government.
Eliminate idle issues by making sure your VSS is connected.
A good guideline to help fix your idling issues on Stangnet.
I made my own harness by using the ECH EC139 vehicle speed sensor pigtail acquired from NAPA for $9 and some 16 gauge green/orange wires and some wire loom.
When doing this, be sure to have the base idle set at 600 RPMs (IAC disconnected) and adjusting the idle screw until the RPM reaches 600. Then disconnect battery and leave disconnected for 15+ seconds to reset the ECU. Reconnect the IAC valve then reconnect battery. Start motor. See how it idles then.
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November 28th, 2009
I just upgraded the rear brakes. Same purpose and reason as of the front upgrade.
A bit more braking capacity would be nicer… now I have that and now everything is all dandy.
Click here for the rear brakes’ 90-93 to 94-97 upgrade procedures.
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November 27th, 2009
I spent some time to produce the front brake upgrade procedure for a 90-93 to a 94-97 brake set-up.
Click here to go there.
I will be working on the rear procedures. Should be equally as easy because the calipers are interchangeable. That’s the big plus. Why go up to Brembo or Wilwood’s for $1500+ when you can do the entire thing for $300 and have approximately as good braking capability. The Wilwoods are up to about 11″ which isn’t that much different than the 10’s that the 94-97’s have.
The 90-93’s did well for my driving habits with this car which is a bit aggressive and beating on it a few times here and there. For a few times, the 90-93’s brakes weren’t adequate for some functions that resulted in a few close calls and scares which prompted the agenda to upgrade them.
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